Marking fabrics

When sewing, there are always pattern markings you need to transfer to your fabric. I grew up using dressmaker's carbon paper, tailor's tacks or chalk but since working in the garment industry where they used pens with disappearing ink, I became converted and ever since used special pens sold for quilters such as this one. Needless to say, they are not available in the Philippines, so I always had to buy them abroad.

One day, it occurred to me to test the washable markers sold for children's art. I bought 3 packs at National Bookstore, draw some lines on a piece of white fabric I had lying around, ironed it (heat sets some dyes making them more difficult if not impossible to wash out)  and threw it in the washing machine. I was really happy to find that all the marks washed out! 

Now, not only do I save quite a bit of money as I don't have to buy expensive quilter's pens from abroad, but I also have a selection of different colors. This can be really useful if you are having many fitting challenges, and aren't sure which was the latest change. I use a different color every time I have to mark a new sewing line so always know which was the latest adjustment! 

WARNING: Even though I have been using washable markers on all sorts of fabrics for some time now, I still test every new pack I buy and would highly recommend you do the same before drawing all over your beautiful fabric with them. You never know if a manufacturer may change their ink recipe, or if an ink reacts to the heat from an iron differently on some fabrics. I also keep my pens separate from my daughter's art supplies and mark them with some colored tape, so I don't accidentally use one of her permanent markers!

Pattern review: Giraffe print dress, Knipmode

Pattern Description:

KNIPMODE magazine pattern #3 08/2008 sleeveless dress with cut-on standing collar, pleats at shoulder, elastic waist with tie belt

Pattern Sizing:

European 38 to 46. I used a size 38 at the top and 40 for the skirt.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

yes, considering I omitted the tucks on the skirt and wore the dress buttoned all the way up!

Were the instructions easy to follow?

KNIPMODE magazine instructions are very minimal and as I am a pretty experienced sewer, I rarely refer to them except if it’s an unusual construction.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

It’s very comfortable and cool for our tropical weather.

Fabric Used:

A cotton print from Bloomingdales in Shangri-La Plaza.  They still have it in a slightly darker brown and I have seen a navy blue version in one of the smaller fabric stores in Glorietta. I really like animal prints and found this giraffe print slightly more unusual. I pre-washed the fabric and to my surprise I found that the print bled. Usually prints are pretty colorfast, but this one bled quite heavily into the white, so the white looked a bit dirty. If you buy this fabric, I would therefore recommend washing it separately by hand (don’t leave to soak!), rinsing in vinegar, wringing out as much of water as possible ( wringing in between 2 towels generally helps remove most excess water) and drying in the sun so it dries quickly without the print running into the white areas. As the fabric is quite thin, I lined the skirt with thin white cotton from Fabric Warehouse.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I removed the tucks from the skirt, as I didn’t think they would be very visible in this fabric.  I also added in darts and the shoulder to stop the back armholes gaping.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Yes, I would as it is a very easy dress to make. I’d probably make it in a solid color and put the tucks back in again maybe with contrast top stitching.

Pattern Review: panel print dress

Pattern Description: 

KNIPMODE magazine pattern #2 08/2008 sleeveless dress

Pattern Sizing:

European 34 to 42. I used a size 38 as this looked wide enough to go over my size 40 hips.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

yes, considering I changed the front neckline

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Knipmode magazine instructions are very minimal and as I am a pretty experienced sewer, I rarely refer to them except if it’s an unusual construction.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

It’s incredibly comfortable, but not that flattering, as the pattern pieces have a slight balloon shape, narrowing to the hem. This gives a lot of extra weight around the hips. The pattern actually also includes pockets in the side seams which I did not include as that would have added to the hip widening effect! The straps are also well placed to cover bra straps although the back view shows, that I should have shortened the right strap a bit to compensate for a lower shoulder on that side.I also just saw from the photos taken this morning, that placing a panel print with a big flower right on your bum is probably also not a good idea! It just goes to show that no matter how much you think about pattern placement, there are always surprises lurking somewhere. …

Fabric Used:

A rayon crinkle from Expressions in Glorietta which I actually did sew up immediately after I purchased it, but am only blogging about now. It is quite transparent, so I lined it with a very thin cotton from Fabric Warehouse in Libis (near Eastwood). I’ve worn and washed the fabric many times now and the black print is starting to fade. A print like this can fade due to abrasion in the washing machine and the strong sun, so really should be washed and dried inside out. Like most rayon’s, it does crease a lot, but actually lining it has helped to lessen that a bit.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I changed the front neckline to a U rather than square as I thought the corners would be weak, as well as a U being more flattering for my skinny chest. I added a lining as especially the lighter portions of the fabric was rather transparent. I also moved the zip to the side seam, as with the panel print I didn't want to be fiddling around matching patterns up the centre back.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Yes, I will as it is a very comfortable dress for Manila heat and doesn’t look too much like a muumuu! I would straighten out the side seams though.

Conclusion:

I’ve already worn this dress a lot and even though its not the most flattering dress I own, it is one of the most comfortable in hot summer weather.